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#1 |
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Grandpa's club
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Beggs, Oklahoma edge of zone 6-7
Posts: 321
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How long can you save seeds of most common veggies?
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#2 |
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WI EL J
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Calumet County WI zone 5a
Posts: 232
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Most common vegetables is probably 3-5 years. Of course, some are less, like parsnips(1 or 2 years) and some are more. I definitley notice a big drop-off in germination rates of tomatoes and peppers after 4 or 5 years, not much before that. That's if the seeds are stored properly.
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#3 |
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earth human
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: california, east of the central valley
Posts: 387
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you can do what the seed banks do if you want longer storage,
if you store them oxygen free, very dry, and cold (like your freezer) they will last a very long time there are all kinds of ways that people store seeds for long term storage, the thing to remember is that you can dry them out to very low moisture only if you have no oxygen around, but you have to plant them very soon after taking them out of storage or they get hurt. taking a seed packet, putting it in a canning jar (totally moisture proof) and keeping it in the freezer will get you way longer life span than just storing the packets at room temp. |
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#4 |
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Grandpa's club
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Beggs, Oklahoma edge of zone 6-7
Posts: 321
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I saw a post that showed how long each veggie seed would last. Such as, 1 year _____ 2nd year______ ect ect. Anyone remember this thread?
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#5 |
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earth human
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: california, east of the central valley
Posts: 387
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I was reading a native American account from the mid 1800's of how the gardening was done,
and they said that corn seeds would only last 2 years and the 3rd year they would not grow many at all. they stored the seeds in challenging conditions, exposed to humidity, heat, cold, and sometimes kept in a pit in the ground... most modern people quote 5 to 10 years for field corn, and that is in a paper packet stored inside a modern home. so I think that the number of years is entirely dependent on your storage methods although some like carrots, parsnips, onions are known to be short lived, and assumed to not last more than one year by many people, but you can extend that to 20 years (tested) or more if you store them correct. so my question is how are you storing them ? if it is with no special methods at all, then you might like the numbers here http://growingtaste.com/storage.shtml |
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#6 |
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Birthday Hug Monkey
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Houston, TX Z9
Posts: 424
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Without any special storage, tomato seeds are viable for 7-10 years with little to no drop-off in viability.
Beans, peppers, etc. are closer to 2 years. |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 394
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There is probably no one correct answer to the storage question, as there are so many variables. As already mentioned, some species (parsnips, onions) tend to be short lived by nature, while others will last a decade or more with only modest precautions. The way the plants are grown, the weather that year, seed processing & handling, and storage techniques are all factors in seed longevity.
The seed has to have been healthy to start with; fully mature, harvested from disease free plants, and not exposed to damaging conditions (frost, rain) prior to harvest. It should also be cleaned to the greatest degree possible, since soil or debris could harbor disease or insects that could cause deterioration during storage. In my experience, even spacing is a factor for some plants; widely spaced plants tend to have healthier seed than those which are crowded. Drying to the proper moisture level before storage is critical, especially if the seed will be kept in sealed containers. Much of the bad reviews I've heard of ziplock bags have probably been because seed was sealed in while not fully dry (or the bag left in the sun while planting). Proper drying to a low moisture level is even more critical if the seed will be frozen. Even seed that has been stored properly can be quickly damaged during handling in subsequent years. While frozen seed has a long life, it can be easily damaged if handled excessively. Dividing seeds into small sealed packages that can be quickly removed will avoid the necessity of warming & re-freezing the entire stock. I've seen the charts giving storage life for vegetable seed, and I use them much the way I use posted DTM's for vegetable varieties - as a starting point for comparison. Those with the shortest life might be good candidates for frozen storage. With proper care, most vegetable seed can be stored several years beyond the recommendations. Most of my seeds are stored in ziplock bags packed within dark boxes, in an air-conditioned room kept at 68-70 degrees all year. My beans, soybeans, tomatoes, and peppers have gone a minimum of 5 years with 80% germination or better. |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: IL
Posts: 539
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Well my daughter proved one thing about ziplocks over and over in her little kid experiments... storage ziplocks leak much more so than freezer type.
Although what probably saved my forgotten stash of seeds that were in the garage was that each packet was in a small plastic bag (hobby shop.. small ziplocks I got originally for beads).. which then was in quart sized freezer bags divided by type.. melons, tomatoes, squash.. you get the idea) and then put in gallon size freezer bag labeled by the year and chucked into a big metal tin. |
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#9 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Windsor, Colorado
Posts: 10
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I read on a different heirloom seed site that several posters recommended putting dessicant packs from pill bottles into the zip locks. Would this dry down the seeds too much? What about use of the oxygen absorber packs?
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#10 |
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earth human
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: california, east of the central valley
Posts: 387
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it is ok to over dry the seeds if you have no oxygen as well.
if you are looking into long term storage of seeds, then read this http://www.seedcontainers.net/a_guid...servation.html it is written by someone that studied seed storage for a very long time, for a good summery for people not delving that deep on the topic, click here
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#11 |
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Peasant Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: SW Washington; Sunset zone 4; USDA 7/8.
Posts: 15
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...Just tapping into this line of discussion....
There are many generalizations and "rules of thumb" that come into play when discussing seed viability and techniques for the long-term storage of particular types of seed. Several postings provide some insight into seed longevity, or lack thereof. I think that the posting by WI HO C most closely reflects my own understanding. There isn't a single time-frame that relates to all seeds. Seed viability relates intimately to how each species evolved in its own environment. When I was in college in the early 1980s, I acquired some seeds that my mother and her older sister had collected in South Africa when they were little girls. These were seeds of a native Erythrina species (--Bean family; hard seed coat). To my pleasant surprise, they actually germinated a half-century later. On the other hand, as has been mentioned, onion (various Allium species) and parsnip (Pastinaca sativa) are unlikely to still be viable into the second year. If so, the viability rate is considerably reduced. A perennial gardener needs to learn about the seed lifespan of the various vegetables that they grow. Once upon a time, this information was passed down from parents to children, who assisted with tending the garden and fields. For the most part, those days are past. That kind of knowledge has been disappearing as more and more Americans take their food for granted. As for carrots: in my experience, carrot seeds are viable for 3 years. For the first three years (from harvest... not from purchase) germination is good. The 4th year: absolutely nothing. Most vegetable seeds are not as temperamental as that, but "the old-timers" who grew at least some of their own food knew such things. If you want to save seeds for future cultivation, you need to be fully cognizant not only of seed longevity, but also of the fact that different varieties of the same species may cross-pollinate when grown together, such that the new seedlings that you grow will NOT be the same as the parent plants that you collected seeds from.... My suspicion is that you probably already know such basics. I have a tendency to be verbose, but I need to go beddy-bye. For an excellent seed catalog that includes information about "normal" seed viability length, not to mention lots of other info, I'd suggest requesting a catalog from: Territorial Seed Company, P.O.Box 158, Cottage Grove, OR 97424-0061. [I order from them, but with this recommendation I get absolutely NO remuneration.] As for information about growing vegetables and collecting pure seeds to be sown again the following year, I highly recommend the book by Suzanne Ashworth: Seed to Seed.... If you're a member of SSE, you're probably at least aware of it. I'm sure that a Google Search would get you to it somehow. It's an excellent book to read and understand if you want to save your own seed and select for improved crops from year to year. There's a lot of info out there to assimilate, depending upon how serious you are. My two recommendations here are only a start. Good Luck, WashingtonRot
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If your crops are destroyed by flooding... Recede.
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#12 |
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WA South Sound Seed Saver
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Western WA State
Posts: 24
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Below are a couple links that are handy guides for seed saving and I have found them to be quite accurate. Also, keep in mind, as some have mentioned here, sometimes seeds are still viable for many years past what they should be. Germination testing before tossing is always a good idea.
Seed Life Guide: How Long Will My Seed Last. Best Method for Storing Vegetable Seeds
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"You can bury a lot of troubles digging in the dirt."
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